I call it heavenly because I had wonderful, fantastic sunny weather the entire 4 days - plus -  I met cool people and made a good friend.  I was surrounded by lush greenery, had some great skinny dips and swims, ventured away from the world of dehydrated food and walked the entire 82km track with no foot pain! 

Day 1: Start to Gooland Downs Hut (25km)

This being my second solo backpacking trip, I felt much more confident.  I quickly said good-bye to Chris, hefted my very heavy pack (I took some fresh food this time which means it's heavier, but, as I discovered, worth it) and headed down the track.  The whole day was uphill, but it was so well-graded, I barely felt the incline.  Stopping off at Perry Saddle Hut towards the end of the day, I made my way down into a little stream with some deep ponds.  I hadn't brought a bathing suit and so stripped down and jumped in.  It was cold, but with the sun streaming down, a little slice of heaven.  Even though I had to keep one eye on the track, this was one of those quiet experiences I know I'll remember for a long time.  After a soba noodle dinner, I hit the track again for another couple of hours to Gooland Downs Hut.  I got the last of the 10 bunks and had a good night's sleep.

Day 2: Gooland Downs to Mackay Hut (20km)

Another beautiful day.  I was the last one up - I find I tend to do this when I hike by myself.  I don't get out of bed until at least 7:30 or 8 whereas most are up by 6:30 or 7.  When you're having a great sleep, why wreck it?  This day was memorable for the people I met.  Louise (Brit), Richard (Kiwi) and Mark (Kiwi) and I hung out for most of the evening, trading stories and making each other laugh.  Things got really good when Mark pulled out a bottle of scotch.  "Instant friends," he said.  We talked about what we do as we hike - Mark looks for good pictures to take, Richard daydreams and I alternate between noticing the trees and plants, guessing how long till my next break, planning my career and playing games with myself: the A-Z of fruits, vegetables, brands, bands. NZ towns etc.  I made shepards pie for dinner which I was incredibly proud of.  Being able to cook well on a trip feels so good.  Of course, this was nothing compared to Jerome's risotto or Mark's couscous.

Day 3: Mackay to Heaphy Hut (20km)

Sunshine all day.  The Heaphy starts inland and makes its way to the coast.  At the end of this day, the ocean comes into view and the Heaphy Hut is on its shore.  Many swingbridges today and a short swim at lunch in the Heaphy river.  Upon arriving at the Hut in the evening, I improvised a bathing suit and had an amazing swim in the estuary.  I actually got a good distance swim in - swimming down the river to where it meets the ocean.  The current was pretty strong on the way back and I was tired when I got out.  Although the sandflies were bad, Louise and I went for a walk on the beach and had a good chat.  Early to bed that night because it was too hot in the hut and too many sandflies to go outside.

Day 4: Heaphy to end (16km)

This day was all along the coast, into the Nikau palms - it felt positively tropical.  Beautiful green forests and ferns on one side of me, crashing ocean on the other.  A few birds like Wekas (you have to learn to appreciate the birds in NZ, there's not much else, animal-wise, to look at) crossed my path and I could hear Tuis and Bellbirds the whole way.  Hooked up the with the gang at the end of the track - including Christina (German) and Casi (Japanese) and compared notes.  When the bus came to take Louise, Richard and Mark away, I was really kind of sad.  I knew I'd see Louise in a week or so, but it was sad to break up our little group.  After another swim, I slathered myself in deet but the sandflies got me just the same.  I read my book - the worst book I've ever taken on a tramp (James Joyce, Portrait of a Young Man - what was I thinking?!) and waited for Chris to pick me up.  Hugs transpired followed by a much-needed shower, burgers and beer.  I loved this hike.